Thursday, October 12, 2006

Different Eyes, Better Person

Ethiopia has faced many adversities throughout its existence. It has witnessed war, occupation by Italy, famine and droughts. Now, the foes are in the form of HIV/AIDS, malaria and extreme poverty. Ethiopians are proud and genuine people who live in a beautiful country that features amazing landscapes such as the imposing Simien Mountains and mind-boggling historic sites like the rock-carved churches of Lalibela. Unfortunately, Ethiopia, a beautiful country is dying slowly: natural resources are being degraded everyday by pollution and deforestation; human resources are being wiped out by HIV/AIDS and malaria.

As I drove out of the airport, my eyes started to capture never-seen pictures of people walking down the street trying to get somewhere, anywhere. I wondered what their long term plan in life was—school, work or maybe marriage. The answers came to me as I lived amongst Ethiopians. Most people’s long term plan reaches only as far as the next day when they need to figure out where they will get their next food and water. Some won’t even go that far and will chew chat to ease the pain and forget about tomorrow.

But not all Ethiopians feel that way, especially the ones I met at different local and international organizations. They were empowered and committed to bring hope and change to people in need. I was impressed by the resilience and love for their country and their people. Where do you find the strength to go on—at the church, at the mosque, inside of you? Whatever it is, it’s admirable and worthwhile to imitate.

For the first time, I felt that I didn’t blend in culturally. I felt like an outsider looking in most of the time mainly due to the language barrier (Ethiopia’s official language is Amharic). Even though I was not able to master the language, I felt that the barrier weakened as I interacted with the people. It faded away as soon as I witnessed Ethiopians’ hospitality and sincerity.

I worked for Project Concern International (PCI), an US-based NGO. PCI fulfilled the scope of work it offered me at the beginning of our relationship. I was fortunate to work for an organization where individual creativity is valued. It also allowed me to work independently and tailor the project as I thought appropriate. I conducted a value chain analysis for the silk industry in Ethiopia. The main objective of the analysis was to perform a market assessment of silk production and silk products in Ethiopia. The report included a value chain analysis which provides a structure that may lead to the development of a strategic plan to improve the value of silk. The project also offered me the opportunity to travel to southern Ethiopia and meet with producers who are struggling to improve their silkworm production.

I met fascinating people along the way who will be in my heart forever. PCI staff includes outstanding human beings who are extremely talented and committed to their work. They always tried their best to make my work easier and more comfortable. I also will always remember the people from other organizations, agencies and Sabahar who opened their doors and shared their knowledge with me.

There are many things that struck me about Addis Ababa. Houses in shambles are mixed in with extravagant three-story homes. The contrast of the breathtaking Sheraton Hotel next to mud huts. Beggars are everywhere; on my way to work, at the Mercato, Piazza, Churchill and outside the Hilton. They are young, old, single moms carrying their children on their backs, blind, people with disabilities, etc. These are people wearing dirty, tattered clothes, probably their only belongings, asking for Birr; children without shoes freezing this time of year, shouting “You, you; me hungry; please help me.” Some kids were more ingenious and would sing beautiful songs in Amharic to attract you. It breaks your heart, it broke mine.

Ethiopian culture is fascinating. Ethiopians have the ability to open their hearts to complete strangers. I had the opportunity to travel around the country where I witnessed the immensity of their hearts. At every house I visited, people with smiling faces would greet me and offer me ‘bunna, shai, dabo’ (coffee, tea, bread), even if it that meant that there would be nothing left for them.

I was fortunate to see rural Ethiopia which, as you may suspect, is very different from the city. The roads added spice to my adventurous trips across the country. Huge bumps, baffled people, skeletal cows, worn-out oxen, noble donkeys carrying sacks full of corn and sugar, sick dogs, and weak sheep were common hurdles on the country roads. We would honk the horn at people and they would get off the road; animals didn’t bother. We had to dodge these unperturbed animals or make a complete stop and wait until they were on the other side of the road.

I also saw many women carrying a large yellow jug on their back to the nearest river to get water. Sadly, these women had to walk several miles everyday because the closest river had dried up. Some of these women were “rich” and had a donkey that did the carrying. Others needed help from their children who skipped school to bring water. They would carry smaller jugs to the river; fill them with water and walk back home, often having to return later that day.

“Faranji, faranji” (“Foreigner, foreigner”); I enjoyed those words in the rural areas more than in Addis. Rural people, especially kids, would run full strength just to shake my hand, say a few words in English and interestingly enough, ask for pens. Others will tell you “I will always remember you, please remember me!”

I have asked myself this question several times already: “Have I helped Ethiopia more than Ethiopia has helped me?” Twelve weeks ago I would have said that I will help Ethiopia in more ways than it will help me. Not so sure anymore. I can tell up to what extent I have grown as a professional but there is no scale that can measure my growth as a human being. Ethiopia has helped me see life with different eyes; it has helped me discover myself. I will never forget that. I am a much better person because of Ethiopia.

Ethiopia will always be in my heart.

Monday, August 14, 2006

"Ethiopia" by Aaron Walters

Aaron let me share this awesome poem with all of you. He wrote it on the plane on his way back to the U.S.
______________________________________________
Ethiopia
by Aaron Walters

People, with nothing, scared, hungry, sick, cold, dirty.

Dogs, not touched, not noticed, not as important as people who are also not touched and not noticed.

Mud, boys make a living cleaning shoes because of it; clean the mud off my shoes boy.

Money, kids running up to the car competing with each other to sell a beautiful bunch of bright orange carrots, grown by people who live with the land, crisp and sweet...for ten cents. Exhaust blowing in their faces as we eat the carrots and drive away.

Donkeys, lying in the middle of a busy road because it is the most comfortable place they can find.

Oxen, strong and proud attached to each other, pulling a plough through the earth which resists every step. Men carry the plough back to home, start again in the morning.

Chat, a natural drug that keeps people awake, only so they don't have to sleep.

Tej, people drink so they can lose a bit of their fear, smiles, laughter, joy...hangover.

Injera, why would you want it without meat? Can't you afford it?

Friends, real. Not much to get in the way of genuine human interaction.

Bugs, in your bed, biting you while you sleep, not sleeping...they win.

Rain, too much now...not enough later. I hate the rain...if it doesn't rain I'll die.

I'm sick myself, how can I take care of you?

The street children say their first need is love, the second, food.

Churches, carved out of rock by hand. Why? Old men who have been living in them for 70 years, what do they know? Can I know it?

People, proud, strong, healthy, intelligent, skilled, patient.

People.

Friday, August 11, 2006

2006 PCI/Ethiopia Staff and Interns

2006 PCI/Ethiopia Staff and Interns:
First row standing from left to right: Kim, Walleligne, Kurt, John and Jose.
Second row standing from left to right: Elisa, Erina, Addisalem, Helina and Abebaw.
Sitting from left to right: Israel, Baheru and Erin. Posted by Picasa

3/4 of the Family at Metro

Metro Restaurant and Pizzeria was our favorite place to go eat. Aaron, Erin, Erina and I institutionalized Thursday nights as Family Nights. Every Thursday night after work, we would go to Metro and enjoyed food and drinks together. But this night was different. It was Erin's last night in Ethiopia and Aaron had already left to London. But we still had a lot of fun and made plans for the future. Posted by Picasa

Dinner at Aladdin

We went to Aladdin for Erin's farewell dinner. We ate humus, kebabs and other Middle Eastern dishes. In the picture, for left to right, Helina, Jose and Israel. Helina and Israel are part of PCI/Ethiopia's excellent staff. Posted by Picasa

Farewell Party

PCI threw a farewell party for us last week. PCI staff includes outstanding human beings who are extremely talented and committed to their work. They always tried their best to make our work easier and more comfortable. Since I was the first intern to arrived to Ethiopia, I had the honor to cut the cake! I also had to do an impromptu speech about our experience in PCI and Ethiopia. Posted by Picasa

Future Farmers

We found these young kids selling carrots on our way back to Addis. We bought a bunch of carrots for 1.0 Birr! The carrots were delicious and we ate them with peanut butter! Talking about Erin's influence over the group! Posted by Picasa

St. George's Church at Lalibela

Lalibela was the last stop of our week-long trip through the North of Ethiopia. There are numerous monolithic churches in the Lalibela complex connected to one another by tunnels. The picture shows the only church not connected to the others. St. George's Church, the most famous one, was carved from solid rock in the shape of a cross. It took 40,000 people to build it! Posted by Picasa

The Family in Gonder

We visited the castles in Gonder. Here from left to right: Erin, Erina, Jose and Aaron. In the background: Fasil's Castle which is the most famous and best preserved of the castles. Gonder was the capital of Ethiopia from 1632 to 1855, and it has the remains of castles and palaces constructed by various emperors. Posted by Picasa

Tuesday, August 01, 2006

Coffee Ceremony at the Simien Mountains

Coffee ceremony in Ethiopia is an important part of their social and cultural life. An invitation to attend a coffee ceremony is considered a sign of friendship or respect and is an excellent example of Ethiopian hospitality. An Ethiopian family invited us to a coffee ceremony at the Simien Mountains. The lady in the picture washed a handful of coffee beans on a heated pan. When the coffee beans turned black, they were ground with a long handled mortar. The ground coffee was slowly stirred into the black coffee pot (made out of clay). We had four cups each! It is impolite to retire until you have had at least three cups, as the third round is considered to confer a blessing. We had so much coffee that none of us could sleep that night! Posted by Picasa

Visit to Monastery

There are several historical churches and monasteries in and around Lake Tana. These monasteries are decorated with paintings that depict biblical scenes about the history of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. Access to the some churches is forbidden to women. Since women are permitted to visit churches on the Zeghe peninsula, we decided to visit them. Here Erina and I in a monastery in Lake Tana, Bahir Dar. Posted by Picasa

Struggling to cross the Nile

Aaron, Baheru, Erin, Erina, Kim and I went on a trip through Northern Ethiopia and visited Bahir Dar, Gonder, Simien Mountains and Lalibela. Our first stop was in Bahir Dar home of the Blue Nile Falls. The Blue Nile flows from Lake Tana in Ethiopia, while the White Nile flows from Lake Victoria in Uganda. Approximately 86 percent of the water that Egypt consumes annually originates from the Blue Nile River, while the remainder comes from the White Nile. The picture shows some locals helping Erina and me cross the Blue Nile. We had to get to the other side of the river to have a closer look at the Blue Nile Falls. Posted by Picasa

Sabahar: Handmade Ethiopian Silk

Sabahar is the only company in the country dedicated to the processing (i.e., spinning and reeling) and weaving of handmade silk and silk blends. Sabahar's line of handmade products includes scarves, curtains, wraps, throws, table linens, and pillows. All the products are naturally dyed with plants, most of which are found in Ethiopia.

Sabahar has a vision to employ skilled women who are single parents and lack a reliable source of income. More than 60 women are spinning Eri silk and are receiving significant income for their good work. Posted by Picasa

PB break at the Office

Erin and Aaron having a PB break! Erin LOVES Peanut Butter; she will eat it straight up from the jar. We usually drink macchiatos and eat PB&J sandwiches at the office. Bananas are a group favorite also. Here Erin is enjoying some PB; Aaron glaring at Erin in the background. Posted by Picasa

After Gym Picture

Before and After Gym Pictures: Here is the After Picture. Erin and I stayed a bit later for a intense workout that included aerobics, treadmill, stationary bike and some weights. Posted by Picasa

Gym Pictures: Before Picture

Before and After Gym Pictures: Here is the Before Picture. Erin and I had meetings that day so we had to dress up. After work we went to the gym for our daily workout routine. Check out our after gym picture!! Posted by Picasa

Thursday, July 20, 2006

Group Picture with the Orphans

We took a group picture after delivering the gift bags to the children. The gift bag included toiletries, a picture of the girl scout and a drawing with a short note written by the scout to her Ethiopian friend. There was this great moment when we saw an Ethiopian girl kiss the picture of her American friend and put it in her pocket. You could see their faces full of happiness not for the gifts but for the pictures. Posted by Picasa

Interacting with the Orphans

We went on a visit to a local NGO to deliver 50 gift bags sent by Girl Scouts from San Diego. All the bags' recipients were children who have lost their parents to HIV/AIDS. The kids were extremely charming and very well-behaved. The thing they liked the most from the gift bag was the picture sent by the scouts. Here Erin interacting with an orphan. Elisa in the background. Posted by Picasa

Poker Night

Erin, Erina, John, Elisa and Aaron playing poker at home. Since we didn't have poker chips, we used red beans as chips. I was the banker. We were enjoying St George beer and kolo. Kolo is a party mix of roasted barley and peanuts. Erin was the winner of the night. She got to have the bean chips for breakfast the next morning. Posted by Picasa

Monday, July 10, 2006

Working hard in PCI-Ethiopia

PCI Interns working hard at PCI offices in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. We are six interns total working for PCI this Summer. All, but me, share the conference room. I have a individual desk next door, but I will be moving into the coference room on July 24 because a new PCI hire will take over my desk! In the picture: John (UC-San Diego) who is working with disable children; Erin (far left; from U of Arizona) who is working with Anti Retro-viral adherence for people living with HIV/AIDS; Kim (near right; from U of Denver) is working with public relations; and Erina (far right;from American University) is working with orphans and vulnerable children. Missing in the picture: Elisa (from UC-San Diego) who is working in a project related to violence against women; and me. Posted by Picasa

Weekend trip to Lake Langano

We went on a weekend trip to Lake Langano. It was a three-hour drive from Addis Ababa to the resort. We spent Saturday and Sunday at Bekele Mola Resort which was decent. Although the Lake has been declared billharzia-free, I was hesitant and didn't swim in the lake. Sadly, the lake is brown-colored due to erosion coming from the surrounding mountains. We also went hiking on the Arsi Mountains for a couple of hours. In this picture, from left to right: Aaron, Erin, Jose, Erina, and Kim. Posted by Picasa

Macchiato Felegalo

Macchiato Felegalo: I need a Macchiato. We all are now addicted to coffee, especially to the macchiatos from the restaurant downstairs. The servers are extremely friendly and will cater to our office every day upon request. In the picture, I am behind Erina who is endulging in her first macchiato of the day. We usually order two every day: one in the morning and the other in the afternoon. The price of a macchiato is 1.50 Birr ( USD 0.17). We usually order some pastries to go along the macchiato. Posted by Picasa

Bayenatu: National Food

Currently, the Christian Orthodox is in their yearly fasting period. During this period Christians will only eat vegetarian food on Wednesdays and Fridays. On these days, no animal products should be eaten. We usually order bayenatu on injera, the national staple. Bayenatu includes shiro-wat (chick pea puree), alicha-wat (split peas puree), boiled potatoes, rice, lentils, green beans, boiled cabbage, and swiss chard. The dish on the picture is for four people and we have refills at no extra charge. Sharing a meal, especially with an Ethiopian, is a sign of trust and friendship. Although you eat with your hands (no silverware, please), it is very to impolite to touch your mouth or lick your fingers. You use your right hand to grab the food; the left hand is reserved for your drink. Posted by Picasa

Hiking around Lake Langano

During our trip to Lake Langano we went hiking in the mountains close to the Bekele Mola resort. It was a two-hour hike on which we saw goats and many birds. I definitely preferred the hiking over the swimming in the brownish waters of the lake.
In this picture: Aaron, Ethiopian guide, and me. In the background: Lake Langano Posted by Picasa
Hiking near Langano Lake Posted by Picasa

BDS Presentation at CHF Workshop

CHF-International, a US-based NGO, invited me to participate in a day-long workshop in the town of Durame. I did a 45-minute presentation on Business Development Services: Importance and Role in the Cluster-Network Approach. Since the audience (around 48 individuals) didn't speak English, the presentation was translated into Amharic by Sintayehu Manaye, CHF-GEBI Program Manager. The workshop gave the opportunity to learn more about the challenges faced by small producers who are struggling to get access to credit and improve the quality and increase the marketability of their products. Posted by Picasa
Walking back home from work Posted by Picasa