Thursday, October 12, 2006

Different Eyes, Better Person

Ethiopia has faced many adversities throughout its existence. It has witnessed war, occupation by Italy, famine and droughts. Now, the foes are in the form of HIV/AIDS, malaria and extreme poverty. Ethiopians are proud and genuine people who live in a beautiful country that features amazing landscapes such as the imposing Simien Mountains and mind-boggling historic sites like the rock-carved churches of Lalibela. Unfortunately, Ethiopia, a beautiful country is dying slowly: natural resources are being degraded everyday by pollution and deforestation; human resources are being wiped out by HIV/AIDS and malaria.

As I drove out of the airport, my eyes started to capture never-seen pictures of people walking down the street trying to get somewhere, anywhere. I wondered what their long term plan in life was—school, work or maybe marriage. The answers came to me as I lived amongst Ethiopians. Most people’s long term plan reaches only as far as the next day when they need to figure out where they will get their next food and water. Some won’t even go that far and will chew chat to ease the pain and forget about tomorrow.

But not all Ethiopians feel that way, especially the ones I met at different local and international organizations. They were empowered and committed to bring hope and change to people in need. I was impressed by the resilience and love for their country and their people. Where do you find the strength to go on—at the church, at the mosque, inside of you? Whatever it is, it’s admirable and worthwhile to imitate.

For the first time, I felt that I didn’t blend in culturally. I felt like an outsider looking in most of the time mainly due to the language barrier (Ethiopia’s official language is Amharic). Even though I was not able to master the language, I felt that the barrier weakened as I interacted with the people. It faded away as soon as I witnessed Ethiopians’ hospitality and sincerity.

I worked for Project Concern International (PCI), an US-based NGO. PCI fulfilled the scope of work it offered me at the beginning of our relationship. I was fortunate to work for an organization where individual creativity is valued. It also allowed me to work independently and tailor the project as I thought appropriate. I conducted a value chain analysis for the silk industry in Ethiopia. The main objective of the analysis was to perform a market assessment of silk production and silk products in Ethiopia. The report included a value chain analysis which provides a structure that may lead to the development of a strategic plan to improve the value of silk. The project also offered me the opportunity to travel to southern Ethiopia and meet with producers who are struggling to improve their silkworm production.

I met fascinating people along the way who will be in my heart forever. PCI staff includes outstanding human beings who are extremely talented and committed to their work. They always tried their best to make my work easier and more comfortable. I also will always remember the people from other organizations, agencies and Sabahar who opened their doors and shared their knowledge with me.

There are many things that struck me about Addis Ababa. Houses in shambles are mixed in with extravagant three-story homes. The contrast of the breathtaking Sheraton Hotel next to mud huts. Beggars are everywhere; on my way to work, at the Mercato, Piazza, Churchill and outside the Hilton. They are young, old, single moms carrying their children on their backs, blind, people with disabilities, etc. These are people wearing dirty, tattered clothes, probably their only belongings, asking for Birr; children without shoes freezing this time of year, shouting “You, you; me hungry; please help me.” Some kids were more ingenious and would sing beautiful songs in Amharic to attract you. It breaks your heart, it broke mine.

Ethiopian culture is fascinating. Ethiopians have the ability to open their hearts to complete strangers. I had the opportunity to travel around the country where I witnessed the immensity of their hearts. At every house I visited, people with smiling faces would greet me and offer me ‘bunna, shai, dabo’ (coffee, tea, bread), even if it that meant that there would be nothing left for them.

I was fortunate to see rural Ethiopia which, as you may suspect, is very different from the city. The roads added spice to my adventurous trips across the country. Huge bumps, baffled people, skeletal cows, worn-out oxen, noble donkeys carrying sacks full of corn and sugar, sick dogs, and weak sheep were common hurdles on the country roads. We would honk the horn at people and they would get off the road; animals didn’t bother. We had to dodge these unperturbed animals or make a complete stop and wait until they were on the other side of the road.

I also saw many women carrying a large yellow jug on their back to the nearest river to get water. Sadly, these women had to walk several miles everyday because the closest river had dried up. Some of these women were “rich” and had a donkey that did the carrying. Others needed help from their children who skipped school to bring water. They would carry smaller jugs to the river; fill them with water and walk back home, often having to return later that day.

“Faranji, faranji” (“Foreigner, foreigner”); I enjoyed those words in the rural areas more than in Addis. Rural people, especially kids, would run full strength just to shake my hand, say a few words in English and interestingly enough, ask for pens. Others will tell you “I will always remember you, please remember me!”

I have asked myself this question several times already: “Have I helped Ethiopia more than Ethiopia has helped me?” Twelve weeks ago I would have said that I will help Ethiopia in more ways than it will help me. Not so sure anymore. I can tell up to what extent I have grown as a professional but there is no scale that can measure my growth as a human being. Ethiopia has helped me see life with different eyes; it has helped me discover myself. I will never forget that. I am a much better person because of Ethiopia.

Ethiopia will always be in my heart.